At the Paris Mens Shows, Extreme Shorts and Extreme Weather Defined the Spring Collections

From sweltering heat to daringly short shorts, Paris Mens Fashion Week was a study in contrasts, showcasing both resilience and a playful embrace of the unexpected.

Heatwave and High Fashion

Paris Mens Fashion Week unfolded under unusually oppressive heat. Air conditioning was scarce, making “It’s so hot” the universal conversation starter. The weather became a defining element of the week, impacting not only attendees but also influencing the collections themselves.

Designers responded with lighter fabrics and silhouettes, but also with a boldness that defied the discomfort.

Key Moments and Trends from the Runways

• ASAP Rocky’s AWGE: Rocky’s second runway show featured a “SWAT team” battling the heat, culminating in Rihanna’s arrival with her son, Riot Rose, and a victory lap for Rocky in wide-leg leather shorts and Louboutin Mary Janes. The collection, titled “Obligatory Fashion,” explored themes of perception and stereotypes inspired by his recent court trial.
• Kiko Kostadinov: The collection offered a cool and fresh aesthetic with Bulgarian military-inspired pajamas, crafted from special fabrics like weathered kasuri cotton and seersucker wool.
• Dries Van Noten (Julian Klausner’s Debut): Klausner’s first collection honored Van Noten’s legacy with embroidery, print, saturated colors, and a fluid masculinity. He pushed boundaries with styling choices like sarongs over khakis and long-john shorts.
• Sander Lak (Sanderlak): Returning to fashion after a five-year hiatus, Lak presented a collection inspired by Los Angeles, featuring relaxed silhouettes, airy cotton shirts, and sun-bleached colors, all unified through a cohesive color palette.
• Childlike Wonder: Emily Adams Bode Aujla, Colm Dillane (KidSuper), and Simon Porte Jacquemus all embraced themes of childlike wonder and imagination in their presentations.
  • Bode: A dollhouse-inspired presentation showcasing miniature maquettes and intricately dressed dolls.
  • KidSuper: A live pop-up storybook with models emerging from giant book pages.
  • Jacquemus: A poetic and operatic collection at Versailles, inspired by Provençal peasant garb.

Key Takeaways

• Short Shorts are In: The extreme heat and a desire for playful experimentation led to a prevalence of daringly short shorts on the runways.
• Comfort and Functionality: Designers prioritized lightweight fabrics and breathable silhouettes to combat the heat.
• Nostalgia and Heritage: Many collections drew inspiration from the past, reinterpreting classic styles and motifs.
• Imagination and Playfulness: A sense of childlike wonder and a willingness to take risks were evident in several presentations.
• The Power of Presentation: Designers used elaborate staging and immersive experiences to create memorable moments.